PROFILE BY BEST RESTAURANTS
In its slightly hidden location off New South Head Road, Bei Amici gives the impression of a neighbourhood eatery, leading many of its local guests to believe it's their own lovely secret. And yet, this restaurant's reputation is spreading afar to the ears of gourmands who seek out this comfortable albeit quirkily-shaped and window bound dining room. Having been brought up in Switzerland, head chef Felix Rutz spent a lot of his family holidays in Italy. Now co-owner of Bei Amici with his wife, Leigh Cholakos, these romantic memories are recreated in restaurant form, which perhaps explains the passion which makes up the foundations of the business.
The cuisine follows a philosophy which uses simple, yet quality ingredients to wholly bring out the best of each flavour. Taking advantage of Australia's superior produce quality, Felix and Leigh scour Sydney's markets and merchants, and chase the best cuts of organic and biodynamic meat before settling on the dishes of the day. Although this allows for an ever-changing and unique offering, it often sparks conflict with regulars who return to feast on a much-loved dish, only to find the menu has changed. Sauteed South Australian calamari with pistachio nuts, cavolo nero and fregola is served with lemon dressing and ricotta salata and is a much coveted dish to start. Similarly, pot-roasted spring lamb with asparagus, semolina gnocchi and watercress sauce is a testament to the talent within the kitchen. It would be sinful to let dessert slide, so spoon into poached quince served with warm pear, house-made honey ice-cream and mascarpone sorbet with caramelised almonds. It's evident that a lot of hard work has gone into creating a wine list that is simple and uncomplicated, and which takes the intimidation out of this wonderful dining experience.
Annabel Wise