PROFILE BY BEST RESTAURANTS
Chesterfields, ceiling fans, tall windows, open fireplaces, lots of dark wood, wait staff resplendent in 1940s garb - all that's missing is Humphrey Bogart trying desperately not to smile at Ingrid Bergman. Or maybe that's him over there in the corner? It's hard to tell, as this is a most eclectic crowd: younger hip types and older more sophisticated couples, mixing comfortably in this brilliantly suave saloon. There's a stand up bar out the back for those who prefer to cruise, schmooze and booze from a vertical perspective, and a private room for those plotting the overthrow of the puppet Vichy government, but wherever you find yourself in this place you're in good hands: the service, food and wine is excellent.
Flick through the uber extensive and very comprehensive drinks list, choccas with top notch wines and spirits, and if you can't find something to tickle your fancy inside that voluminous volume then you'll never be satisfied. Match your choice to something from the tapas menu, a rich spaghetti puttanesca, limey Thai prawns, or maybe a sinful chocolate fondue that is richer than Paris Hilton but much more subtle. This is a place to shine. There's no dress code but the atmosphere makes you want to dazzle like Lauren Bacall, so in other words get your glad rags on and have a ball. You might even want to turn up, rose-between-teeth, for the Tuesday night tango classes.
John Weldon