CINA
Melbourne, VIC

Cina – which means China in Malaysian – is an engaging mixture of styles. The red entrance from High Street opens out to reveal a long thin restaurant where a few tables in a narrow bar area continue to lots more tables at the rear. Each are set with white cloths and there's nice attention to detail – spiral chopstick holders, insulated cups, elegant glass teapots and coloured glass plates. The menu is extensive and ranges from Cantonese to Northern Chinese with a large Malaysian section as well. Plus, there's a list of daily specials. There are banquet menus for those who find the choice is all too much.

The dumplings are a house speciality, and there's a wide choice too. We loved the Shanghainese pot-sticker dumplings which are crisp on the fried base, flavourful and juicy inside, and served with black vinegar. Steamed dumplings are light, and there are some spicier options such as the Shanghainese pork dumplings with a rich laksa sauce. Other recommendations include scallops steamed on the shell with three different toppings, the green tea prawns and the chicken hotpot with basil, ginger, spring onion and garlic. The roast duck was a disappointment but the Malaysian-style curries are excellent, especially with a roti on the side. The restaurant gets bonus points for having a remarkable list of drinks, being reasonably priced, and offering the option of bringing your own wine.