Monopole is the latest wine and dine concept from Chef Brent Savage and Sommelier Nick Hildebrandt (the dynamic duo behind Surry Hills Bentley Restaurant and Bar), together with Sommelier Glen Goodwin.
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Taking over the former Sailor's Thai space, Monopole is right at home in this trendy part of town. Dark, sleek and sexy, Monopole is located just down the road from hospitality heavy weights The Apollo and Gastro Park. The idea, according to Savage and Hildebrandt, was to open a wine bar and eatery where they could experiment with a "more casual concept". Monopole isn't casual – it's actually quite intimidating. Designed by Melbourne architect Pascal Gomes-McNabb, the dark and moody interior is dominated by a long bar that borders the open kitchen. Perch at the bar and get amongst the action as the bartenders sip, squeeze and shake their liquid concoctions before you. Order a charcuterie platter and watch as the cured meat is freshly sliced right before your eyes.
Despite the credentials of its owners and its terribly trendy location, Monopole is surprisingly unpretentious. There's a liveliness about the restaurant that demands attention. And perhaps, gives the restaurant some leeway when it comes to the overpriced menu. The quality of the produce is all there – from the grilled scampi and roasted suckling pig to the Iggy's bread and shaved heirloom vegetables - but quantity, as well as robust flavours, are lacking. However, the house cured and smoked duck breast and cured venison on the charcuterie platter are exceptional and make a visit to Monopole worth your while.