LOCATIONTwenty minutes’ drive north of the city.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIASince opening for business a few years ago, Clarke’s of North Beach has jumped in leaps and bounds. From its humble beginnings in a quiet street in North Beach, the restaurant has since won many awards for fine food and fabulous service. So popular is this unassuming little northern suburbs venue that when I called on a Tuesday to arrange an interview, their message bank was full after being closed for two days. Assuming all these messages are eager diners chasing bookings, there’s no argument that business at Clarke’s is showing no signs of the current tough economic times. Despite an interior that seems a little dated, the food and service is what draws the steady throng of diners here. Crisp clean tablecloths, folded linen napkins and silverware so shiny you can see your own reflection all hint towards the fine dining experience that awaits.
Yes, the service and the dining may be polished, but there’s also an air of relaxed comfort that removes any hint of stiffness from this finely tuned restaurant. One look at the food and it’s easy to see why owner and chef Stephen Clarke once cooked for Her Royal Highness. The signature dish of roasted rib of prime Margaret River venison served with a warm salad of caramelised baby onions, navel oranges and Shiraz jus lie certainly does its best to impress, as does the slow-cooked lamb shanks with smoked bacon, eschalot and rosemary sauce. The emphasis is on fresh local produce and home-made delights, such as the bread with olives and dipping sauces. Now I’m not usually one for desserts but the sticky toffee, date and Mars pudding with home-made vanilla bean ice-cream and toffee sauce is too good to refuse. If only I’d heard about it before I scoffed so much bread.
Karen Bilsby