The Provenance

LOCATION
Beechworth is located in northern Victoria, a three-hour drive from Melbourne, and just 45 minutes out of Albury.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Within the grand and slightly austere surrounds of this former bank building, chef Michael Ryan produces dishes with quality and flair. Having sold the hatted Range restaurant he ran with partner Jeanette Henderson, Ryan turned his talents to nearby Beechworth. The food is modern but unpretentious in approach and employs the area’s high quality produce while embracing both European and Japanese influences. Star players include a simple starter of anchovy served with its fried bones and Ryan’s signature entree of butter-sauteed cauliflower with chickpea puree, mustard sabayon, polenta shortbread crumble and brown butter jelly. Other entrees might include braised wild rabbit with green peas and toasted orzo, chestnut flour tagliatelle with hazelnuts, sage, lemon, pecorino and dried orange or roasted heirloom carrots with chorizo, prawns and prawn bisque.

Main dishes present locally sourced meats such as dry-aged King Valley Murray Grey beef with dashi-braised eggplant and daikon, soy beans and konbu relish, venison with goat’s cheese fritters, roasted beetroot, hazelnuts and chutney or seared and braised Rutherglen lamb with treviso, lentils and quince mustard fruits. Desserts offer a simple, sweet finish and could feature lime cordial whip with coconut ice-cream, toasted coconut and lime cake or bitter mandarin souffle with white chocolate and rosewater sauce and toffee mandarin. First timers might like to opt for the degustation menu which offers six courses with or without matched wines, while vegetarians can also rejoice in a dedicated degustation menu as well as several a la carte options. Housed in the old vault, the wine cellar reflects Henderson’s winemaking experience and has a strong local focus as well as far ranging and interesting boutique wines and varietals sourced from Australia and overseas. The Provenance also offers boutique accommodation for anyone who wants to take full advantage of its extensive wine list.

Angela Costanzo

DETAILS
In an air of grandeur, Provenance restaurant is seated in the old Bank of Australasia, built in 1856 at the height of the gold rush. Its dining room still offers hints of the bygone years with high ceilings, wooden arched windows and ornate ceilings. Where once the bank vault held money and precious materials, the restaurant now houses its extensive range of wines. The exterior of the restaurant offers just as pretty a prospect with gardens and the shade of apple blossoms, so diners may pass the charms of the grand indoor rooms and choose to eat alfresco.
However, whether you soak up the historic elegance of the old bank from the inside or the outside, you will be delighted with the “regional contemporary” menu by celebrated chef, Michael Ryan. Coming to Prevenance in December 2008, with several chef’s hats and accolades under his belt, Ryan’s cuisine has once again received praise and managed to secure The Age Good Food Guide 2009 Best New Country Restaurant award.