Tea Rooms at Yarck

LOCATION
The village of Yarck is 2 hours drive from Melbourne, on the Maroondah Highway.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Between the humble little houses of Yarck, the quaint weatherboard cottage could be easy to miss if you are just driving through. Fans of Pietro Porcu’s city restaurant Da Noi, however, know it’s well worth making the trip to his latest venture Tea Rooms at Yarck. They follow him for more of his wonderful Sardinian dishes served this time in a romantically rural setting. Taking inspiration from Italy’s agriturismi which mixes local produce and hospitality with tourism, this trattoria has a warm atmosphere that comes from its light-filled interior and daily changing chalkboard menu. It’s been a vision of Porcu’s for some time to create a restaurant that serves true product-to-plate dining, and the last few years has seen him realise the dream with many of the ingredients such as olives, fruit, vegetables, eggs, veal, rabbit and goat all sourced from his nearby farm.

Those in the know trust in the restaurant’s expertise that improvises with the seasons, accentuating the natural flavours of the ingredients to create artistic dishes. Through his cuisine, Porcu sews together his organic herbs and vegetables, lining each dish with country heart and robust Sardinian flavours. A meal might start with Sardinian flat bread splashed with olive oil and served with the strong Italian flavours of prosciutto and prickly pear. Fresh pasta having been hand-made that morning is bound together with a rich tomato-based sauce. Hearty meats feature prominently with lamb and kid available seasonally; both house specialties. Duck breast is glossy with Sardinian honey and bejewelled with a sprinkling of peppercorns. Each succulent morsel of the slow-cooked suckling pig is infused with the flavours of the local herbs that garnished the pork. Cleanse the palate with a watermelon sorbet before finishing with vanilla bean panna cotta or chunks of pecorino cheese drizzled with honey. The wine list suits this food well, with mostly Italian bottles and a few local drops to complement the homely dishes. A glass of Mirto, a Sardinian digestive made from myrtle, is a perfect way to end a meal at Tea Rooms at Yarck.

Angela Costanzo