Royal Mail Hotel

LOCATION
On the Glenelg Highway, Dunkeld, at the base of Mt Sturgeon in the Southern Grampians.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Dining at the Royal Mail Hotel may not be something you can afford very often, but it is certainly something that should be done at least once. It is such a complete experience, from the beauty of its country setting and gorgeous views to the creative modern menu that is inextricably linked to nature and the progression of the seasons. Dan Hunter’s restaurant tasting menu relies heavily on the heirloom and organic produce grown in the kitchen gardens, giving rise to a series of small, perfectly formed, dishes that capture purity of flavour while embracing a modern aesthetic. That’s not to say that these dishes are grandly esoteric – most often they are very simple. Hunter’s cooking is there to service the food rather than the other way around.

Menu items are described simply. The seasonal menu may feature dishes such as “cool climate vegetables, leaves, coffee, cocoa” or “pigeon, beetroot, white chocolate, rose’. There is a unique fusion of modern technique with a respect for produce, nature and seasonality. Give yourself time for this experience – the duration of the full menu is about three hours. The bistro features the same respect for its dishes as the restaurant does, but offers a less structured setting. The seasonal a la carte menu may offer cured ocean trout with orange, saffron and trout crackling; spaghetti with zucchini, almond and mint or slow-cooked lamb with stewed eggplant, beans, potato and thyme. The restaurant is also famed for its wine list, which features a carefully selected range of “village”, “vintage” and “international” wines.

Angela Costanzo