PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAStanding among the gum trees, Wild Oak is a pleasant, rustic-style restaurant; its single-storey building is made out of timber with an open kitchen inside. It sits just back from the intersection of Mt Dandenong Tourist Road and Ridge Road, so it’s not tricky to find. Inside, Wild oak is easy-going and comfortable, but dressier at night, with tablecloths and soft lighting bringing an endearing formality to the dining room. Chef Ben Higgs began his apprenticeship at just 15 years of age and his hard work and commitment to the gourmet cause is evident in his delightful dishes.
Ben’s cooking tends to European provincial-style meals which have dynamic Australian touches that give the menu a fresh and modern influence. For example, at lunch we ate succulent wild barramundi with a pesto crust and a refreshing tomato salsa. At dinner, the dish is enlivened with a serving of warm tomatoes and basil with an olive tapenade. Beef and lamb dishes here are particularly good – try the dry-aged porterhouse with sweet potato mash. Lunch is fixed price for two or three courses; dinner is more expansive in its choices. The wine list is predominantly Victorian, with a leaning to wines of the nearby Yarra Valley with a reserve list for those wanting to splash out.
Rita Erlich, September 2008
