LOCATION
Hawthorn.
DESCRIPTION
The Undertaker derives its name from the previous function of the building, but this exciting venue in Hawthorn has lots of life, particularly now with a spanking new upgrade to all levels. The Undertaker is set over several levels, with a bar and restaurant area downstairs, and a second lounge area upstairs.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
All that’s left of the original building, which was once a funeral parlour (Undertaker, get it?) are the pointed arch windows at the front. The rest is a warm combination of downstairs bar and cafe, and upstairs restaurant. Downstairs, which is known as the Social has polished timber floors, wooden tables, elegant marble-topped bar and funky lights, and is a particularly good spot for a beer with mates, since the list is so extensive. It’s also great for coffee, or a little something more. A clipboard menu lists snacks, pizza, and main courses. Try the fetta and chorizo croquettes for a small dish, or to share before a meal. Main courses include pasta, steak, and a smart Social burger. At lunch, there’s an excellent $15 fast menu, providing a limited, but satisfying, choice.
Upstairs, the restaurant is sleek and modern, with light colours, tables set with white cloths and polished glasses, and a big chandelier to offset the clean lines. The menu, which come bound in leather, changes seasonally and covers all the bases of seafood, beef, pork, and vegetarian dishes. Perhaps a fillet of John Dory served with braised octopus, globe artichokes and broad beans will take your fancy, or a hearty combination of Wagyu rump with crushed carrot, Spanish manchego cheese and ox tongue. The wine list is extensive and well chosen, with an excellent selection of half-bottles. There’s a great value fixed price lunch menu too.
Rita Elrich, July 2008