The Mess Hall

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
This is nothing like an army mess hall, although it probably does feed a small army of people during the course of a week. The white painted cafe with wall art is simple and friendly, housed in an old city building that still has its lofty old pressed-metal ceiling that gives the small area a sense of space. It’s designed for city workers. It opens for breakfast, there’s a stack of papers on one big table, and it’s a great place for a good strong coffee. Frank Stella, who also owns Stellini Bar in Little Collins Street, took over in mid 2007, and extended the opening hours to include dinner.

At lunch, there’s a great mix of people: men in suits huddling over osso buco and a glass of red; students tucking into filled rolls; late risers doing orange juice and a hearty breakfast; or just people after a coffee and a read of the paper. The menu is chalked on to a board above the bar, and includes good pasta dishes and salads, as well as a fine BLT on ciabatta. Sit at the back near the kitchen for the appetising aromas, or at the front to watch the world go by. A small but reasonable wine and beer list rounds off your meal.

Rita Erlich