The Grand Hotel

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The Grand Hotel is aptly named. It’s one of those large, corner wedding-cake hotels, which looks like the outside is in need of a bit of a spruce-up. The action here, however, is all inside. It’s still clearly an old pub, with a large bar area and courtyard. The bar is a good one, with an enterprising menu, but the real business is in the dining room. It’s a single big space with walls that are painted brown and decorated with the outlines of deer and trees (a motif repeated on the glassware). The tables are set primly with white cloths and napkins at which bentwood chairs are placed, providing reasonable comfort. When it’s busy, as it usually is, it can be noisy, despite the carpet.

The food is Italian, with a particular refinement and a tendency towards lesser known dishes. The first courses are notably good. We adored the char-grilled calamari and fennel with capers, lemon and olive oil, and the brilliant salad of artichokes and peas with basil and mint leaves, topped with shavings of pecorino. Pasta dishes are excellent, from the pizzoccheri buckwheat pasta with cabbage and potato, to the vincisgrassi, a ripper version of lasagne that’s silky and rich. For main courses, try one of the constants on the menu such as the pot-roast veal with silverbeet. Or go for the rabbit or fish dish of the day (maybe swordfish with oregano and capers). The wine list is a well-chosen mixture of Italian and Australian, with some wines by the glass. Smiling and knowledgeable waiters also add to this wonderful experience.

Rita Erlich