The Graham

LOCATION
Ten minutes from the CBD and a couple of blocks from Port Melbourne beach.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The Graham was built in 1870 when there must have been a pub on every Melbourne street corner. This one has stood the test of time and has become thoroughly modern in its approach. There are tables on the broad pavement which are sheltered from the sun by big umbrellas. Inside, there’s a light-filled dining room with white walls, Baltic pine floorboards and big windows looking on to the street. There’s a bar along one wall, and the tables are set primly with white cloths and napkins, and good wine glasses. Under the ownership and management of the Giannakis brothers, the atmosphere is professional but friendly.

The first treat here is the quality of the food, which embodies a very contemporary blend of flavours with hints of the Mediterranean and Asia. We loved the seared yellowfin tuna which is sliced and served very rare with crisp wasabi coleslaw, eggplant puree and two little mounds of avocado with miso. The effect is clean and fresh on the palate, and very satisfying. But there are also dishes such as red duck curry, classic pancetta-wrapped baby chicken, or scotch fillet accompanied by horseradish potato salad to please the tastebuds. The cheese selection is limited but very good, as is the dessert platter. The other treat is the wine list which is a comprehensive selection of wines from Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Spain, Portugal and France. It’s all enough to make you want to move within walking distance of this place. A further treat; the wine bar has its own meze menu to accompany your ideal tipple.

Rita Erlich