LOCATION
St.Kilda.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
On paper, Sapore (which means flavour in Italian) ticks many of the right boxes. Positioned at the Bay end of Fitzroy Street, it possesses an enviable view of the sea, but, regardless of the vista, Sapore is well worth a visit. For a start, it’s an attractive venue, decorated in red, pale caramel and white, with elegant pendant lights cascading down one corner, and solid wooden tables that suggest purposeful eating. It’s the little details that show someone cares about the place – the vase of fresh flowers and the sparkling glasses bring a brightness and freshness to the dining room. However, it is the outside tables that are highly prized at lunch and at sunset.
The food is fundamentally Italian, with some contemporary touches. To begin, the saporetti – little tastes – are always tempting. Also try the citrus salt-cured salmon, which serves up a generous plate of spice-edged slices topped with avocado, iceberg lettuce and poppyseed bread pieces. One of the signature dishes of gnocchi with braised rabbit sauce is truly exceptional; it comes soft and light as gnocchi should be, with a sauce that includes layered tomato, capers and truffle butter. The wine list is well chosen (mainly Australian and Italian) at user-friendly prices. There’s a good range under $50, and an equally good range for higher-end quaffers. The set lunch menu is a great bargain at $28 for two courses, or $38 for three, including a glass of wine. On Monday and Tuesday nights, there’s the option of a good value three-course signature dish menu.
Rita Erlich