San Choi

Profiled by de Groots Media
San Choi moved from Hawthorn in 2006 into larger premises in a stretch of Kew that is starting to look promising as a dining strip. The restaurant is big, set mainly with round tables for the large Chinese groups who come here. Its walls are hung with views of old Hong Kong, and bright cards with the specials of the day written in Chinese. Unless your Cantonese is up to scratch, ask the waiter to translate. He will tell you the listed dishes are for Chinese tastes – sea cucumber, fish maw, and so on.

There are some specials printed in English and friendlier to a Westernised palate – the stuffed scallops, for example, are a delicious mixture of fish and vegetables baked in the shell. The red lantern chicken, a combination of fried chicken and prawn mousse, is less successful due to excess greasiness; so stick with fish here, preferably from the tank. Prices go up at this point, particularly for crayfish cooked with a bit of chilli and served on a bed of noodles that absorb the flavours and the juices. Servings (especially vegetable dishes) are geared to larger groups so go with a few friends.

Rita Erlich