PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAWhat strikes you first is that Rumi doesn’t look typically Middle Eastern. Housed in a converted corner shop, it has a functional, modern style that is content to let you pay most of your attention to the food. A quote in Arabic script along the plain white wall, subtly placed ceramic Whirling Dervishes in the sweets cabinet, lovely green-glass water carafes and etched brass drink trays are elegant are understated touches that reflect the cuisine on offer. This is food to share. Portions are small so boldly order several dishes at a time from the attentive staff and enjoy the progression through the one-page menu, working your way from appetisers such as plump green olives and pickled vegetables through a variety of larger dishes before arriving triumphantly at dessert.
Owner-chef Joseph Abboud uses the ingredients and flavours of his Lebanese background, but with stylish interpretations that speak of his experience at restaurants such as Ondine, Circa and Ladro. The presentation is lovely; smoked eggplant is peppered with pistachios and deep red pomegranate seeds creating a meal that appears to gleam with jewels. Persian meatballs in tomato and saffron sauce are splashed with pure white yoghurt and succulent, marinated barbecued quail is skewered and served with a trail of bright green olive tapenade. Each dish flaunts beautiful flavour combinations too, like the fried cauliflower, its deep, nutty taste complemented by onion, pine nuts and currants, or sigara boregi, crisply fried pastry cigars filled with soft, salty fetta and haloumi. Rumi provides a fresh take on a cuisine that at other restaurants has become too familiar.
Angela Costanzo