LOCATION
Melbourne CBD
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Radii is now nine years old, and its bold multi-level design still looks modern. There are so many surfaces, levels and materials used in the design that the restaurant is not far behind a glamorous architectural showroom. The great advantages are significant in the streaming natural light, and the spaciousness of the dining room which makes Radii an ideal place for a business lunches and private chit chats. It’s expansive without being intimidating with cheerful touches here and there such as the baskets of fruit and vegetables placed lovingly on the counter, and the general clatter that comes from the big open kitchen.
Jean-Christophe Tomasi’s food is essentially Mediterranean with French and Italian influences. The flavours are clear and fresh and the presentation of each dish is very attractive. Start with the deliciously flavoursome flamed lobster bisque with Pernod cream and then perhaps move onto the crisp pork belly with Hokkaido scallops, cauliflower puree and sticky jus. There is a wood-fired oven of which I can safely recommend anything that’s been cooked within it. The snapper fillets, which are seared on the skin side and left to rest in the oven, combine crispy skin and succulent flesh and are served with baby vegetables and a citrus beurre blanc. There are a number of grills too, for those who like a dozen oysters and a great steak. It’s not cheap (five-star hotels never are), but it has a sense of occasion that makes it worthwhile. Lunch is a more casual affair with choices like Caesar salad and vegetable frittata however the lunch special, including valet parking, is exceptional value.
Rita Erlich, April 2008