Quanjude

LOCATION
At the base of the Republic Tower in the CBD.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Quanjude comes as a surprise to anyone used to the colour schemes of contemporary restaurant architecture. Forget greys, blacks and beiges, and waiters in designer uniforms. Think scarlet and gold, in great quantity, with hints of blue, and a hostess dressed in traditional northern costume, complete with headdress. It’s a bit like time travelling, particularly since Quanjude is situated at the base of Republic Tower, which is a boldly contemporary apartment building. This restaurant is a franchise, based on the original Quanjude in Beijing, which was established in 1864 by an enterprising young man from the provinces. In its time, it has served countless dignitaries. Now in Melbourne, the restaurant is set downstairs and is gaudily colourful – its tables set with gold cloths and traditionally patterned cover-plates.

Peking duck is the speciality here, served half or whole and carved tableside by a white-gloved chef. Allowance is made for tables of two, since individual servings are offered. The rest of the menu includes a myriad of Chinese treats, which accounts for its popularity among Melbourne’s Chinese diners. Fish maw, sea cucumber, duck webs, duck tongue, bamboo pith are all featured. For more cautious eaters, there are all the favourites, plus a few more, such as prawns and scallops cooked in various ways, and a great range of fish and poultry dishes. The skilled waiters are very helpful with suggestions and recommendations – it’s often wise to take their advice. The wine list is comprehensive and, for its size, reasonably priced.

Rita Erlich