PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAPunch Lane is one of the CBD’s long-running successes. It’s a cosy place at the top end of Little Bourke Street, and when it first opened, it was something of an anomaly in the city’s Chinatown district. The building is old but inside it has a smart casual air. Its owners are old hands in the restaurant business and know how to create a welcoming and good-humoured atmosphere. The interior is dominated by a large bar and a huge blackboard on one wall that lists cheeses and wines by the glass. The floors are timber, the tables are bare, the chairs are comfortable – especially the red leather ones. At night, it is often full of lively small groups adding to a jovial dining experience.
The restaurant serves up European bistro fare, taking influences from Spain, Italy and France. You could start with something as simple as a bowl of Sicilian olives, or take it a step further with a chunk of real parmesan and some grissini. More substantial entrees include a Spanish-influenced antipasto plate or seasonal dishes such as white asparagus. Simple dishes here are often excellent such as the succulent and crisp-skinned fillet of ocean trout served with spinach and a wedge of lemon. There’s always a good and fairly priced selection of Australian and imported cheeses. The wine list is substantial, and wines by the glass are most generously sized and match well with the food on offer.
Rita Erlich, November 2008