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Plume is in a cluster of so-called family restaurants on Doncaster Road, and after the first visit, you’d think that for good food and a healthy approach to eating, everyone should be part of a Chinese family. Plume, which looks forbiddingly charcoal grey from the outside, is large, rather modern and cheerfully busy inside. Diners range from couples to multi-generational groups, and there are high chairs for babies.
There’s a lot to be said for large Chinese restaurants, and the menu is the first good thing. This is an extensive list, with a huge choice that is supplemented by whiteboards listing the day’s specials in English and Chinese, which might include venison and a special duck dish. All the familiar favourites are here: calamari with spicy salt, fish fillets in black bean sauce, crispy skin chicken, Szechuan beef, and so on. But here’s a tip to make the most of your dining experience: it’s worth being adventurous here. Try the seafood hot pot with abalone, prawns, scallops, mushroom and sea moss; or a soup or banquet. Book for weekend yum cha or there’s a good chance you won’t get a table, and make sure you go with a good appetite.