LOCATIONOn the main restaurant street in Fitzroy.
PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAErmias Wondimu first opened the doors of Nyala on Brunswick Street over 20 years ago. The restaurant has moved a few doors from its original location but Wondimu still runs the front of house and kitchen, and still offers diners a rare culinary adventure through the gamut of flavours found in African cuisine. Wondimu’s signature dish comes from his homeland of Ethiopia and combines ginger, garlic and a home-made berebere (chilli) to create a flavoursome, rich and hearty traditional beef stew. Nyala’s impressive menu rarely changes as it seems to be a perfect representation of flavours from all corners of the continent. North-western African cuisine, drawing on flavours from peanuts, potatoes and mild herbs and spices, are found in Wondimu’s domeda beef dish from Gambia, while sweeter flavours come in the baboutie, a South African entree option made from mince meat, fruit chutney, sultanas and almonds. Sweet Moroccan cous cous and wholesome fava bean dishes from Sudan rub up against a rightfully popular chicken coconut curry from Kenya. There is also a reasonable selection of vegetarian dishes that use seasonal vegetables and mild spices.
Nyala’s decor is colourful and lively with terrific African art and objects displayed throughout the space. The open dining area seats 60 to 70 and is perfect for daytime corporate functions or work gatherings as Wondimu will open for lunch on large bookings. A selection of African beer and wine is available and all offerings are reasonably priced with mains ranging from $17.50 to $18.50.
Frank Trimboli, December 2008
