Nostro Baretto

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The old GPO was transformed a couple of years ago, and this tiny Italian restaurant is one of the best parts of the change. It’s straightforward, professional and warm-hearted. There’s a small but high ceiling-ed dining room, white painted and with white cloths and napkins, like a beautiful little trattoria somewhere in Italy. Outside, in the former laneway, there are tables and chairs under cover, perfect for a coffee or a drink, as well as for meals. The menu, which has changed every week since Nostro Baretto opened more than two years ago, is chalked onto a board outside. If you’re indoors then owner Umberto Lallo will run through the dishes with you, making each sound more irresistible than the last.

The food isn’t fancy; just nice to eat. Think house-cured salmon, or perhaps a bowl of soup in which chicken brodo is given body by lentils and rice, and extra flavour with a hint of pesto. Think penne with an oxtail ragout, the richness of the oxtail offset by green peas. Think a well-chosen wine list, with some fine Italian wines among them along with a few to knock your socks off, and some great value Australians. Not sure what to have? You can safely rely on Umberto’s knowledge, experience and enthusiasm to steer you through your meal.

Rita Erlich