Mutti’s

LOCATION
Close to Rathdowne Street and a short walk from Lygon Street.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The name means “mother’s kitchen” in German, and this reflects the carefully considered but homey ambience of Carlton’s Mutti’s. This is a welcoming, light and spacious restaurant free of the heavy traditional stylings that often mark this type of establishment. That’s not to say that the menu isn’t dedicated to the generous, hearty nature of Mitteleuropean cuisine. With native Austrian Thomas Stocklinger (ex Fenix) in the kitchen, diners can expect well loved, traditional home-style meals created with the deft touch of an experienced chef. Servings are more than generous and all dishes are very reasonably priced. Start with a strudel of spring vegetables, roasted truss tomato and fresh horseradish creme fraiche or wild rabbit cabbage rolls braised in red wine on Puy lentils with savoury pear jam.

Mains include favourites such as paprika chicken, goulash and the house specialty kassler (smoked loin of pork with sauerkraut and dumplings) as well as crisp roast pork hock with spiced red cabbage, bratkartoffeln and apple horseradish (for two) or beer, cumquat and spice braised beef short ribs with saffron mash. Duck lovers should try the triple duck – a gluhwein poached duck breast teamed with crispy duck leg and a potato dumpling filled with duck crackling and served with braised savoy cabbage and lingonberry-scented duck jus. There are also several vegetarian options available. Desserts include “Oma’s buchteln” (brioche filled with plums and served with hot vanilla custard) and black forest trifle – a triumph of chocolate sponge, jelly, fresh cream, sour cherries, chocolate shavings and a drizzling of schnapps. This type of food demands a great beer to accompany it and Mutti’s obliges with a great selection of Austrian and German tap beers. There is also a diverse range of local and international wines available.

Angela Costanzo