Metropolis Eating House

LOCATION

On Sydney Road between Glenlyon Road and Albert Street. Easy access via tram and short walk from Brunswick train station.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA

This former ballroom has been given a new lease on life while still preserving much of the building’s beautiful interior. Metropolis Eating House is the newest venture for French chefs Gabriel Martin (Maisonette, The French Brasserie) and Stephane Pettier (Aux Batifolles). The eclectic and flexible venue caters to any occasion from a quick drink to a special function with ease. The large room is divided into two moods – the cosy lounge area is complete with polished floorboards, antique armchairs, and vintage lamps for an intimate feel, and the contemporary dining space features deep red carpets and seriously stylish Art Nouveau red and gold wall paper that embodies European style.


Metropolis Eating House serves some classic French flavours such as roasted duck with eggplant, orange and radish salad, or the rabbit pot au feu (stew) with baby cabbage. There are some interesting mains such as the scallop carpaccio with golden beetroot, avruga, abalone and carrot jelly, or the smoked eel with turnip and kaiserfleisch ravioli. The restaurant offers a range of menu options and styles which are flexible and can be divided into small, medium and large plates. The Feed Me menu offers a tasting plate of the chefs’ favourite dishes which can be served with the perfectly matched wines. Choose from the Bar Miniatures menu to enjoy lamb shoulder cigars with watercress and hoi sin dip, or the salmon tataki with chilled cauliflower cream, both served with a drink. All mains are available as half serves for increased shareability or to cater to the merely peckish. The wine list is comprehensive, offering a good range of Australian and European varieties. All the desserts are enviable so the sampler is a great option if you find it difficult choosing between the deep fried ganache with citrus syrup, or the white chocolate Aero bar with caramelised banana and avocado. Sunday lunches are aimed at families with a traditional French three course lunch ‘just like Grand Mere used to cook’ that is influenced by chef Pettier’s childhood spent in the Liore Valley.

Angela Costanzo