Mercer's Restaurant

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Mercers is located in a modest and well cared for weatherboard building with a wide veranda, set back slightly from Eltham road. Inside, the dining area is equally well cared for: comfortably furnished, attractively decorated, and tables set with white cloths and handsome glasses. There’s a certain formality to it but nothing stuffy, and the mood is decidedly friendly. Stephen Mercer and his wife Ute have run this restaurant for more than 10 years, building up a strong regular following.

Forget about Eltham being off the beaten track because there’s nothing suburban here. The cooking is imaginative and assured, with a menu that changes seasonally. Stephen Mercer has a terrific sense of flavour and a great eye for presentation. He paints dishes like chilli fried squid with lively bright leaves on a cool smooth puree of avocado and coriander. Or a slice of Atlantic salmon cured with lemon myrtle, served on a rectangular dish with a little mound of cucumber sorbet and an eggshell-full of smoked salmon scrambled egg. Two courses is the minimum here ($48 for vegos, $52 for others) but three is a better idea, since desserts are simply gorgeous. The degustation menu is excellent, with the option of wines matched to each courses and a separate vegetarian degustation. The wine list is mainly Australian, and there’s a good range by the glass.

Rita Erlich