Loam Restaurant

LOCATION
Attached to the Lighthouse Olive Grove on the Bellarine Peninsula, a short drive from Queenscliff, Portarlington and Point Lonsdale.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
With its name inspired by the regional soil from which many of its ingredients are derived, Loam’s husband and wife team have a contemporary approach, backed up by a love of artisanal local produce and simple, seasonal flavours. The dining space is abundantly scattered with proof of this – perhaps a selection of herbs or freshly picked fruit, quinces from neighbouring farms, mushrooms picked nearby or a basket of free range eggs from Geelong. Chef Aaron Turner grew up in this area and was the head chef of Queenscliff’s Athelstane House before a European tour of duty to Denmark’s Noma and Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca. These experiences influenced his current style of beautifully conceived, elegant and modern dishes that still exhibit a simple love for these locally sourced ingredients. His wife Astrid Turner works the front of house and cheerfully oversees an enthusiastic team who combine country friendliness with knowledge and professionalism.

There is no conventional menu here, rather, a list of current ingredients that may make an appearance in the two, four, seven or nine courses to come. After nominating the desired number of courses and any dislikes or allergies, diners are left to enjoy views across olive groves and rolling hills towards Swan Bay. Dishes might include forest mushrooms and Loam’s garden silverbeet served with yoghurt flavoured by pine needles. Today, shredded sand crab is accompanied by horseradish custard and light cauliflower cous cous. Other distinctive dishes are brined beef tongue served with red quinoa and sunrose, and a cheese platter highlighted by Ossau Iraty cheese that is flavoured with organic spelt, cardamom, cloves and baby celery leaves. A single page wine list favours Australian drops with a few European labels. A matched-wine option is perfect for those who want to surrender themselves completely to Loam’s capable hands.

Angela Costanzo