Lamaro's

LOCATION
South Melbourne

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
How many things can an old pub do? As many as you like – so long as it has the right owners. Pam Lamaro took over the old Bayview a couple of years ago, and it’s now one of the cleverest and most flexible places in South Melbourne. Eat in the dining room with its uncluttered but warm decor, or the bar which is bright and shiny and has its own menu, or even the conservatory. The place is light and fresh, and so is the food.

Michael Lambie (from Taxi) is the exec chef, Todd Adams is in the kitchen, and between them, the food is right up-to-date with a combination of pub classics dressed to kill, and Asian-influenced dishes. Think five-spice calamari with green papaya salad and a hot and sour dressing, beer-battered flathead with hand-cut chips, freshly shucked oysters and a great burger in the bar. The menu changes seasonally, but there are always daily specials. We loved the fried zucchini flowers stuffed with prawn mousse, served with a spicy tomato sauce. Servings are pretty generous, so you won’t need a side – except the spinach is terrific and so are the salads. It can get pretty busy so if you’re in a hurry, eat in the bar. The wine list is extensive, with some good French, Italian and New Zealand choices. Decent beer list, too, with five on tap. After all, a good pub never forgets its origins.

Rita Erlich