Ladro Gertrude

LOCATION
Close to the corner of Smith Street and Gertrude Street, and easy walking distance from Brunswick Street.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The dancing flames of a woodfire oven is at the centre of Ladro’s success while its white-tiled exterior scrawled with the daily specials draws regulars back routinely. Ladro set the bar high when it opened in 2003 and it still creates the standards of what a fantastic pizzeria should be - energetic, fun, vivacious, and adept at turning out roughly hewn, crisp pizzas. The smart and minimalist décor is made up of marble top communal tables that stretch through the restaurant, while smaller ones are arranged outside in a little garden framed privately by brick walls. Ladro satisfies its fashionable Fitzroy clientele with no-fuss service and the consistent quality of the food. Pizza is the main attraction, but the antipasti, pasta dishes and the roast of the day are just as well executed.

The pizzas on the menu vary between bountiful toppings to others that celebrate simplicity. A perennial pizza favourite is the Badabing that comes bestowing slices of pork sausage and provolone cheese that emits aromas of fresh basil and oregano and finishes with a chilli bite. The Boscaiola draws in regulars with billowy chunks of fior di latte cheese, porcini and baked field mushrooms fragrant with sprigs of fresh thyme. The crisp arancini rice balls stuffed with artichoke, lemon and bocconcini must be tried whether it be as a starter or a snack between pizzas. Panna cotta is infused with pepper, clove and vanilla and served with warm honey-poached apples while the soft sponge of the bomboloni (Italian doughnuts) soak up blood orange syrup and vanilla ice cream. It’s as hard to get a table at Ladro now as when it first opened, but if you don’t have a booking, a seat at the bar is equally entertaining as you watch the atmosphere created between the staff and guests who have become long time friends. A second restaurant has also opened in Prahran so now you don’t have to cross town to satisfy a Ladro addiction.

Angela Costanzo