PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIATaking its name from a part of southern Thailand where the land between the Gulf of Siam and the Andoman Sea is at its narrowest, Isthmus of Kra is renowned in Melbourne for serving creative and traditional Thai dishes in a beautifully tranquil setting. A distinguishing characteristic of the menu is its emphasis on seafood and the absence of any pork dishes - an Islamic prohibition followed by the large population of Thai Muslims who live in this area.
Chef and co-owner Beh Kim Un partners with his brothers Kim Poay and John Dunham to create a truly mouth-watering Thai menu filled with tempting offerings. Start with tom yum soup cooked in a terracotta pot with your choice of chicken, prawns or vegetables, or the peppercorn charred king prawns on a bed of citrus, cucumber and apple rojak salad. Follow with the house favourite of oven-roasted duck ped yang in a red curry, textured with vegetable florets, or try the beef rendang braised in a uniquely spiced reduced coconut stock topped with caramelised onions. For dessert sample the tofu caramel with crushed toffee pistachio. A variety of banquets is offered ranging from $45-$65 per head and is an excellent introduction to this cuisine. There is an eclectic wine list of unusual varieties with choices to please many wine enthusiasts.
Veda Wickens, March 2006
