Channy’s Chinese Bistro

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Channy’s doesn’t look very traditionally Chinese: it’s quite small, there’s no red, and no round tables. Instead, the walls are cream, the ceiling a lively sea blue (perhaps reflecting the Bay at the end of the street), there’s a grey-blue carpet and upholstered chairs, and a tiny courtyard. Still, the spirit and the cooking are very Chinese. Andrew Chan, who oversees the place, has been part of the Chinese restaurant scene for years. He is attentive, smiling, and sincerely interested in the crossovers between Australian and Chinese food, matched with wine.

The menu is large, with a list of specials before the extended choices. Most of the favourites are there – the dumplings, chilli prawns, spicy calamari, pork ribs, steamed oysters with ginger or black bean sauce, Peking duck. The cooking’s good, and the impressive wine list brings out the food. This is quite different from the rough and tumble dining of casual Chinese suburban restaurants: food is served from a wheeled side table, and presented on flat plates instead of bowls. Try one of the chef’s specials, which show how Chinese cooking can be adapted to Australian tastes without losing anything: the stuffed mushrooms are filled with minced Aussie beef, rather than the more usual pork. Not sure what to eat? At lunchtime, there’s the option of three dishes with rice, tea, and a glass of wine, all for $25. Or there are three suggested banquets, from $40 per person. The wine list includes some heavyweights like Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace, but is mostly populated with more approachable drinks.

Rita Erlich