Cafe di Stasio

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
There’s an element of the theatrical from the moment you approach Cafe Di Stasio, from the bronze hands that form the door handles, to the mask-like light fittings and the not quite painted walls. But there are traditional elements, too. The tables are quite small, with white cloths and napkins and small lamps providing soft light. The plates are plain white, the cutlery serviceable. The mood is what makes or breaks di Stasio – sometimes the mood is wonderful, and at other times it can only be described as a bit grumpy.

Cafe di Stasio polarises people. There are those who love it and those who think the food is ordinary and the waiters rude. At its best, this seems like one of Melbourne’s most professionally run restaurants. When it’s bad, it’s a painful disappointment, particularly for those who have loved it in the past. The menu, on a large printed card, is deceptively simple – the baked oysters are always a good start, as is the veal with celery salad. The duck with spaetzle (noodles) is outstanding. But don’t rush, because the waiter will run through a huge list of specials and, just when you’ve worked out what you really want, is likely to return with a couple of other temptations. The pasta is always outstanding, and so are the fish dishes. The wine list is very well chosen, though pricey. The di Stasio wines come with a hand-written label – don’t be fooled, they are classy drops. The $30 two-course lunch menu is great value, but the price should probably be regarded as “from $30”, since it is likely that you will be talked into sampling an additional dish or another glass of wine.

Rita Erlich