Café Di Stasio

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
There’s an element of the theatrical from the moment you approach Cafe Di Stasio, from the bronze hands that form the door handles, to the mask-like light fittings and the not quite painted walls. But there are traditional elements, too. The tables are classic, small with white cloths and napkins. Small lamps provide soft flattering light to your dining companions. The mood is tempered, much like an Italian, sometimes good, sometimes bad, but always loud and opinionated.

The menu, presented on a large printed card, is deceptively simple – the baked oysters are always a good start, as is the veal with celery salad. The duck with spaetzle (noodles) is outstanding. But don’t rush, because the waiter will run through a huge list of specials and, just when you’ve worked out what you really want, is likely to return with a couple of other temptations. The pasta is always outstanding, and so are the fish dishes. The wine list is detailed and very well chosen, but most diners will be found drinking the quality Di Stasio label wine produced on the owners’ Yarra Valley estate. The $30 two-course lunch menu is great value, and one that will leave you sampling an additional dish or second glass of wine.

Rita Erlich