LOCATIONDirectly opposite Elsternwick train station on Glen Huntly Road.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIABe sure to work up an appetite before you venture to Budapest for its traditional Hungarian offerings. Part of that tradition involves serving up massive plates of schnitzel, goulash, cabbage rolls and dumplings. There’s much to love but the portions are not for the faint hearted. Appetisers include many dishes of the crumbed and fried variety – stuffed mushrooms, camembert or chicken livers – or try house-warming chicken soup as a light entree to the main menu. Schnitzels are famed here, from basic chicken or veal through to the stuffed schnitzels, which might involve a filling of chicken liver and onion pate or Hungarian smoked sausage and cheese. Those feeling particularly ambitious might opt for slampi – a veal cutlet filled with smoked turkey and cheese, fried in a grated potato and garlic-infused batter and topped with sour cream and (more) cheese. Most mains come with a choice of two side dishes – the red cabbage is a must. Hungarian food isn’t noted for vegetarian options, but mushroom crepes, filled with mushroom pate and topped with a creamy, paprika-infused sauce, are delicious and satisfying.
Prices aren’t cheap but reflect the generously sized portions. Take advantage of the nightly happy hour when schnitzels, goulash and jugs of beer are a bargain at $14. Dessert crepes make a sweet and not overly filling end to a meal, but if you choose to tackle the sweet cream cheese dumplings make sure you have accomplices. A massive, wobbly serve, it comes tossed in breadcrumbs and topped with sour cream and icing sugar – and is strangely moreish. The bar also has a great range of palinkas – eastern European fruit brandies such as sweet and fragrant golden pear liqueur or the Silva plum liqueur, which are worth trying – but beware, at 44% they pack a real punch.
Angela Costanzo