Birichino

LOCATION
Close to Albert Park’s main shopping street.

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The name biricchino means “cheeky”, but really, the place is cute rather than mischievous. The restaurant takes residence in an old Victorian terrace house that was converted into a restaurant some owners ago, but it looks extremely happy in its new life. It has the air of a friendly, local trattoria in a small Italian town, with a terracotta-tiled floor, cosy tables covered with red cloths and a white overlay, and timber chairs. There’s also a lovely little courtyard area at the front of the building with a few tables sheltered by large umbrellas.

This is more than a restaurant, since the food offers an opportunity to check out what’s happening in Italy at any given time. The menu changes fortnightly, more or less reflecting the events and festivals of Italy. Since there is always something going on somewhere, from the Carnival of Venice to the white truffle festivals of Piedmont and the annual celebrations of Rome’s birthday, there’s always something to celebrate, it seems. Some dishes make many appearances, although with variations. Start with an antipasto platter for two, and then, in the Italian style, move on to pasta. Pasta dishes here are excellent – try the gnocchi, perhaps with a lamb ragout, or the ravioli filled with crab and served with clams and mussels, a few cherry tomatoes and a hint of chilli, with a deliciously light broth-like sauce. The main courses will usually include a salt-crust baked fish or a giant steak that’s wise to share. The wine list is mainly Italian and also changes frequently. There are always good wines by the glass, too.

Rita Erlich