PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIABirdman? You’re looking at him – lots of them, in fact, suspended from the ceiling. The idea came from the old Greek story of Icarus, who flew too close to the sun and melted his home-made wings. Owner Tim Tehan’s mother used to read him the story, but you can relax as no one is going to come to an unhappy end here. The place is small and simple, with banquettes, plastic chairs and bare-topped black tables. But the atmosphere is friendly and the food well-chosen and delicious.
The menu changes during the day. Breakfast is a particular treat, offering ricotta with a great fruit selection – all ripe. Or there’s Welsh rarebit, essentially toasted cheese with bite on excellent bread. And what about hotcakes with ginger ice-cream? Best of all, breakfast is available until 5pm. There are other choices during the day, like lamb cutlets with a potato asparagus salad and harissa mayo. The cooking is inventive, careful and quite delicious. At the end of the day, the food is a version of mezze or tapas, and is great to share. Think black olive wash on a plate topped with asparagus and roasted beetroot salad with fresh, soft goat’s cheese. Or you can tell the waiters what you don’t eat, and let the chefs construct a meal for you. For groups of eight or more, there will be a chefs’ menu. The wine list is particularly well-chosen.
Rita Erlich