Babka Cafe

REVIEWED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
The smell of Babka (which means grandmother in Russian) is the first attractive thing about this cosy bakery/cafe, which has stencilled babushkas (Russian dolls) around its entrance. There are warm, yeasty, freshly baked bread smells, boosted by the sweetness of cakes and savoury aromas, with hints of coffee. Its eat-in food offerings are listed on a printed card and on the blackboard. Many have an Eastern European flavour, such as Russian borscht, Hungarian veal paprika, Polish-style barley and mushroom soup, and dumplings. There are cakes on display for between or after meals and the lemon tart is recommended.

Breakfasts are hugely popular, especially at weekends, when regulars often bring a book or newspaper with them, so they can read while queueing patiently for a table. Try something like polenta pancakes with smoked salmon and horseradish cream, or blintzes filled with cottage cheese. At lunch, the sandwiches are huge and delicious. The corned beef is especially good. Like the bread? You can always buy a loaf of casalinga to take home. The wine list is small, but provides some good drinking at moderate prices.

Rita Erlich