PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAWith wood panelling, starched linen cloths and napkins, quality tableware and discreet service, this establishment has the feel of a London gentlemen’s club. As it is, it’s become a Hobart institution; a comfortable, consistent and well-worn lunching and dining retreat for politicians, business men and women, the made-its, the aspirants and, at night, a more varied clientele of celebrating special-occasionists. Despite the clubishness, the service is professionally efficient, friendly and attitude-free with most of the staff having worked the floor for years.
Like the cut of the men’s suits, things change slowly at the Astor and its best, as it always has been, to avoid the menu’s more creative touches and stick with the simple. Oysters, freshly shucked and served as nature intended, are always a good bet, and they do good things with crayfish when in season, but the real attraction is the steak: thick, juicy and chargrilled to order, as good as you’ll find anywhere in the state. There’s a good vintage selection of block-buster reds to accompany them from one of the city’s better wine lists.
Graeme Phillips, April 2007
