Profiled by de Groots MediaThe name means baby fish and Smolt shares the contemporary makeover of the old Antarctic Centre with Tassal, Tasmania’s largest salmon producer. Outside is a beautiful large fish tank housing plate-sized baby salmon – for display rather than for the plate. Inside it’s all modern industrial-metallic and timber, with an open stainless steel kitchen running the full length and fronting three separate, timbered dining spaces. One of these is centred round a large tiled communal table with window benches looking onto the Square, the other two are a little more formal with laid tables, chairs and comfortable banquettes. The whole feel is stylish, welcoming and casually relaxed.
The menu embraces the modern trend towards smaller dishes and shared plates with “small plate” serves a little larger than tapas and “big plates” about normal main-course size. It’s the small plates that are the most exciting and offer the best value – things like a fresh and earthy grilled asparagus, beetroot and goats cheese combination; mussels with chorizo crumbs and aioli that is nicely Spanish and spicy; and fabulous, vinegary roasted peppers with white anchovies and capers, a tinglingly sweet/sour flavour hit that perks the spirits as it cleanses the hangover. The big plate selection is more mainstream but the cooking is spot-on, the service and atmosphere great and there are some interesting imported numbers on the well-selected and priced wine list.
Graeme Phillips