Plum

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Chef Mark Goodluck and his business partner, Sam Thiessen, opened Plum in October 2008 after an extensive makeover of an existing restaurant interior. The deep, elongated space now exudes a smart and sophisticated, contemporary feel with subtle tones, sexy lighting, clothed tables fronting comfortable padded banquettes, quality tableware, a neat little bar and bar tables fronting the Square and an open kitchen. And, just as the makeover has brought a touch of class to the general, run-of-the-mill eateries around Salamanca Square, so too has Goodluck’s food.

His dishes are exemplary examples of balance and flavour. Ravioli of ocean trout – envelopes of raw trout replacing the normal pasta – filled with lemon and herb-infused goat’s cheese is an inspired combination of flavours. A rustic spatchcock roullade filled with duck liver is seriously more-ish; beautifully rare and rested venison comes with an immaculate, wonderfully limpid game sauce; and a thick, pan-fried slab of stripy trumpeter served on a creamy, white bean puree with caper berries, fennel, herbs and lemon oil shows what a truly great fish is when fresh, cooked with care and served with sympathetic accompaniments. Everything from the bread to the excellent chocolates to finish is made in-house. Fresh oysters come in seven different guises, lunch menus are more cafe-style, they sell 60-plus litres of their seafood chowder a week and they’re slowly building on what is already an interesting wine list.

Graeme Phillips