PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAAfter a Hobart apprenticeship and a few years in the kitchens of some of Melbourne’s leading Italian eateries, this small, casual establishment is chef Alex Jovanovic’s first solo venture. Not that you’d know, for his cooking is totally confident with simple, bright Italian-accented combinations and flavours in which every element sings freshness, balance and sure-handed technique. From angel hair pasta with sea urchin roe to large tortellini filled with crushed peas and quail, his hand-made pastas are impeccable. And his in-house antipasti and ravioli of roast pumpkin and ricotta with sage burnt butter, pine nuts and sticky balsamic would easily rank as the best in the city.
At the earthier, more rustic end of the dinner menu, succulent lamb shanks come with green olives, pancetta, turned potatoes, garlic bread crumbs and plenty of rosemary in a dish that would gladden the heart of any hungry Sardinian mountain shepherd. And the wonderful fresh lift of his mint, basil, radicchio and orange salad under thick, tender pieces of pistachio-crumbed calamari would do the same for a Sicilian fisherman’s spirits. Altogether, it’s hard to fault Piccolo. The food, its superb presentation, lack of pretension and simple, clean flavours really are very, very good. And Jovanovic’s partner, Alisha Wilson, provides exemplary front-of-house service to match. There’s a smallish but intelligently composed and reasonably priced wine list, the luncheon blackboard menu changes daily, and there’s an all-day menu of coffee and sweet goodies.
Graeme Phillips