Mojo Cafe Bar

PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIA

This is a modern establishment that’s perfectly targeted to its market, the sort of suburban coffee house come cocktail bar and eatery that everyone would love to have just around the corner. The decor is composed of simple clean lines with subdued lighting, comfortable lounge groupings for coffee and cocktails with banquettes running through to a few tables on an outside deck. The smallish wine list is well chosen and balanced across styles and prices with 16 available by the glass. Most pleasing, however, is the food itself which comes down to the integrity and compatibility of the ingredients, the sure-handed seasonings and the simple, unfussed style of the presentation.

From a sweet potato and coconut milk soup to a pumpkin and goats cheese lasagne or the richly flavoured duck ragout with pappardelle, the flavours are fresh and vibrant. The cooking is spot on in combinations that are imaginative but thankfully devoid of boastful flourishes and unnecessary garnishings. A dollop of harissa spices up lamb shanks and Turkish ratatouille, simple sweet peas offset the richness of the duck, toasted peanuts provide crunch to the Thai-inspired chilli salt calamari and quince aioli accompanies the city’s best salted pork belly. Nothing is palate-popping fantastic, but everything and every little detail is just right. Which is what makes Mojo so exceptional.

Graeme Phillips