Marque IV

LOCATION
Elizabeth Pier, Sullivans Cove, Hobart

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Gone are the Ferran-Adria-influenced molecular gastronomy style dishes which, from its opening day, won Marque IV such wide national acclaim. Instead the new chef, Justin Harris, has introduced a less contrived and less elaborate style with the accent on the cooking and flavours of Spain and the Mediterranean. The result is that Marque IV is now more accessible than ever, the food more mainstream, if you like, but the presentation remains as stylish, the ingredient and flavour combinations as enjoyable and the service as good as ever. Not to mention, of course, the fabulous waterfront location and views, and the restaurant’s ultra-swanky decor.

Jeans and T-shirts and romantic twosomes are as comfortably at home here as suited business men and women doing the networking thing. All could be scoffing on wonderful fresh oysters, a dish of Galician-style octopus with pepperonata and potatoes, a classic steak tartare or a melting onion and Gruyere souffle while the favourites at a recent lunch were a perfectly cooked steak of albacore tuna and an outstanding dish of house-made chestnut pasta with mushrooms, porcini cream and real parmesan. In the latter dish the intense, creamy flavours were beautifully contrasted against the textural crunch of crumbled hazelnuts. There’s a short dessert menu, a choice of 16 local and imported cheeses and a separate menu of tapas-style dishes to be shared over a glass or two from the extensive wine list at the alfresco, waterside tables.

Graeme Phillips