Maldini

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
Housed in one of the lovely 1820s sandstone warehouse buildings that form the historic facade of Salamanca Place, Maldini Cafe Restaurant is one of the most popular eateries on the crowded tourist strip. One side of the split-level interior is a well-stocked wooden bar sculpted and decorated by local artist, Tom Samek, while the dining area reflects the mellow warmth of the original sandstone walls with windows affording a view to the passing parade outside. From early morning heart-starters to alfresco antipasti and a glass of wine and on to late night grappas, the place buzzes with tourists and local regulars alike

While there’s sometimes a problem with consistency, it’s one of the very few local Italians to move beyond pizza and pasta and offer menus that reflect the diversity of regional Italian cooking and flavours. The ragu pasta sauce is authentically long-cooked, rich and satisfying. Their mussels and clams in a tomato broth headily perfumed with saffron are wonderfully flavoursome and their risotto can usually be relied upon. They occasionally do a great veal chop too. The very ordinary, mostly mainstream wine list with only a few equally ordinary Italian numbers, however, is a let down. But the atmosphere, service and excellent coffee help make up for any shortfalls and consolation can always be found in their great range of grappas.

Graeme Phillips