Little India

PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA
This is the best value and most popular eat-in and takeaway option on the CBD intersection of Harrington and Collins Streets, a precinct bordered by a range of similar ethnic eateries. There’s nothing fancy here; no attempt at Bollywood decor and no service to the bare tables. A screen hides a very basic kitchen and wooden stairs lead to a characterless second level. The food is dished up from a large bain-marie yet, at meal times, people queue to get in.

The reason is that the food is good, freshly made, generous and cheap, ranging from seven different and excellent naans to samosas, tandoori, kebab and tikka dishes through to rogan josh, beef vindaloo, palak paneer and, of course, the insidious butter chicken. The flavours are tailored to what is perceived to be the Australian palate, but they will spice things up to a next-morning burn level if you ask. It’s a place where diners eat and run rather than sit and discuss the world, but also a place where punters are guaranteed a good feed.

Graeme Phillips