LOCATIONOpposite the Hyde Park Tavern at the intersection of King William Road and Mitchell Street.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThe stalwart of Zoe’s is nowadays run by delightful husband and wife team, Nick and Sahar Elskaf. If they do not sound Greek to you that is because they are Lebanese, but be assured there are no gastronomic hiccups in this changing of the guards. Classic yiros, shaslick and moussaka dishes are always available to take away with house-made salads, dips and dessert. For the best Zoe’s experience, however, fill a table full of friends and settle in. Nick’s mega-watt grin lights up the informal space, which is otherwise simply decorated with Aegean prints. There is an alfresco area for fine weather with grapevines adding to the casual Mediterranean feel. Unpretentious, clean and contemporary describe both the decor and the dishes.
Marina Souris is a much-loved kitchen fixture, known for venturing out to chat with diners when the mood takes her. Sahar’s mum Suzie now joins her and whips up cracker kibbi. Chef Amrish rounds out the multicultural trio who work a menu based on tradition with modern tones. Those who appreciate an authentic meat and seafood charcoal grill will be in raptures. Begin with oysters that have been shown the heat and doused with pepper or garlic. Seafood lovers will further delight in a playground of barramundi, Atlantic salmon, prawns, octopus tentacles and calamari set to sizzle on the grill. Simple lemon wedges are surpassed by Zoe’s lemon cream sauce. Greek lamb dishes are always formidable and arni Kalamatas is no exception. The fillets come with crisp garlic potatoes, sauteed greens, beetroot skordalia and a Kalamata olive dressing. Do try to leave room for cream kaitifi. Syrup-soaked layers of baked shredded pastry will roll your eyes backward with liquored cream, vanilla custard and roasted nuts.
Roz Taylor, April 2009