LOCATIONA minute’s stroll from Hindmarsh Square in the CBD.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIABeing ranked in Gourmet Traveller’s Top 100 Restaurants in Australia is sound indication of what to expect from your visit. It is a destination eatery, not one you are likely to (heaven forbid) stumble into considering its downward staircase. On street level, the venue’s 1862 Bar and Bistro greets foot traffic. As a casual dining option, its kitchen sets the standard with offerings such as a steak sandwich made with Wagyu rump and Roquefort dressing. An unassuming entrance offside heralds the gastronomic journey that awaits those in the know. Descend to zebra-patterned carpet to be cosseted by a sedate, but not, stuffy room. The basement locale gives an inner sanctum feel, perhaps even club-like but definitely not old school. Tables are smartly dressed in pristine white linen. Dignified glassware nods to what many go underground for – the wine list. Vintages wink at you from the coolroom and rich timber cabinets, making it easy to fall into The Wine Underground’s state of mind. The food far from plays second fiddle; together they hold star billing.
Head chef Adam Liston is one to watch. At age 27 he has spent time in Sydney’s acclaimed Quay and two of Adelaide’s best; Magill Estate and (formerly) The Melting Pot. Describing the cuisine at The Wine Underground, he says it is “contemporary Australian with Asian influences using French techniques”. This is evident in blue swimmer crab with a shellfish consomme and garlic emulsion or 16-hour cooked pork belly with a scallop mousseline, pickled shiitake, seared scallop and Iberico jamon. Every component of the dishes pays homage to each ingredient and seeks to highlight their individual flavours. It may indeed be the oyster beignet (fritter) that persuades you to order the pan-roasted ocean trout with its smoked ham broth. Venture underground soon.
Roz Taylor