LOCATIONOn the corner of (tram-lined) King William and Sturt Streets.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIA“Modern South Australian” cuisine is a fitting, cool way to describe the food at The Kings. And it is a cool crew that steers this historical city hotel. Are they passionate about South Aussie produce? You can bet your Smoky Bay bivalves on it. The Eyre Peninsula oysters kick-start a smart, tight and seasonal menu. Order a trio and you will pay nearly four clams a piece. Naturally, (kilpatrick-ed or with a shallot vinaigrette) they get cheaper by the dozen. Kangaroo Island haloumi has its glorious, squeaky saltiness slid onto a salad of Packham pears, roasted walnuts and rocket and splashed with a citrus and honey vinaigrette. Murraylands piggies have their bellies crisped and laid to rest on a shiitake, Asian greens and sesame noodle salad. A sweet soy and burnt orange dressing finishes this dish as a menu favourite…unless you are a die-hard fan of Adelaide’s culinary quirk – the pie floater. Chef Amanda Griffith’s interpretation fills a sour cream pastry with Clare Valley beef, onion and winter vegetables steeped in Barossa Valley shiraz. The beast is surrounded by a moat of fresh pea and mint puree.
Pie talk summons thoughts of brews and you will find a choice selection within The Kings’ “100% South Australian” bevvie list. Goolwa’s Steam Exchange is a standout stout with its tasting notes promising “rich, chocolate, roast and bitterness”. Enjoy all of the above in a den-sized dining room as hip as the menu. There is not a feature wall but a feature well of sorts. Lose the irrational notion that its glass roof will break under your feet and you will be rewarded with views of its watery, dungeon-like depths. Visit the bar if you want to encounter white trash – all in good taste – it’s The Kings’ cracker cocktail featuring the lifeblood of South Australia – Farmers Union Iced Coffee.
Roz Taylor