PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAIf you are planning to visit the zoo or botanical gardens, stroll across Hackney Road afterward for a meal here – or vice-versa. The facade is respectful of its 1883 heritage, while inside is a contemporary fitout. Enter from the rear carpark for immediate access to the dining areas. The Atrium is a pleasant, open space with a centre stone feature used to pot a mini palm. Timber and cane settings keep the decor neutral. Delightful animal-inspired artwork was commissioned to a local artist, which adds colour and is a whimsical reminder of the zoo close by. It is nicer viewing than the plasma screens, but don’t let the latter distract you from good conversation and food. Speaking of distractions, children have their own menu designed to entertain with puzzles and crayons. Order the Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc and everybody will be happy.
Seafood is well represented on The Atrium menu. The “combo” is a fry-up of battered dory, crumbed calamari, prawn cutlets, chips and tartare sauce. Salt and pepper calamari arrives with fries, salad and sweet chilli sauce. Mussels are in a typical broth of tomato, white wine, garlic, chilli and coriander, while crusty bread makes a handy sponge. Standout dishes are the garlic prawns with saffron oil over rice and crispy skin Atlantic salmon. It sits atop lemon and dill risotto and is served with broccolini and gorgeous hollandaise sauce. Serious steak dishes include Wagyu rump with rosemary potatoes and beef jus; and Meat Standards of Australia fillet with mash, onion jam and red wine jus. Roasted lamb rack, pork scotch fillet and oven-baked chicken breast should satisfy all tastes in between. The chook rests on caramelised leek hash, with a cream-based, semi-dried tomato and pancetta sauce. Desserts delight with steamed banana pudding, chocolate sauce and honey marscapone.
Roz Taylor