LOCATIONAt the intersection of King William Street and South Terrace.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIADo not expect a humble Vietnamese eatery. Come to Sugar Cane, one of the CBD’s newest nosheries, for lashings of authentic dishes served in cool, contemporary surrounds. Enter into a bar and lunching area where midday specials are delivered to slick black tables or venture to the wooden deck which divides the U-shaped facilities of the restaurant and enjoy a refreshing alfresco break from busy city days. Greenery and a glistening water fountain ease you into a delicious time. The serenity flows through to the main dining space which boasts timber-panelled walls, bamboo feature work and muted retro lighting. A gorgeous private window-front room is set with votive candles in pebble boxes and spiky cacti. Stash yourself away with a clutch of friends and meander through a menu of captivating smells, tastes and textures.
The signature entree, Sugar Cane prawn balls, please as two plump cylinders of seafood moulded around stumpy sugar cane skewers. Golden fried, their succulence will put your tastebuds on the path to salivation. Japanese grilled beef with basil soy wasabi pokes its head in as an outsider starter worth exploring. Rolling your own rice paper rolls is also a fun option. The “sizzling young beef” version brings slices tossed with ginger, onion and shallots. Green salad, a tangle of vermicelli and invigorating fresh mint leaves arrive too, ready for your nimble fingers to deftly (or perhaps clumsily) usher them into delicate rice papers. Mains offer steamboats laden with braised duck, goat or beef in a wholesome exotic broth of aniseed and herbs. The traditional stone hotpots are a treat. Heavy, Korean-style bowls come lined with rice which gets crispier as the piping heat keeps the goodies within warm. Swirl down their flavours with a tall glass of coconut juice, shards of its sweet flesh suspended throughout.
Roz Taylor