LOCATIONOpposite the Royal Oak Hotel.
PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAAfter sauntering into Shanghai House, the first thing that impresses is the decor. This restaurant attracts those seeking authentic food but not at the expense of a civilised dining experience. Equal attention is paid to both interior design and dishes, meaning that all senses are catered for. The walls of Li Xia’s Shanghai House are free of dragons, carp and iced tea posters. Instead, ornate carved tabletops are covered with glass – not plastic or paper. Look above for intricate artwork panelled into the ceiling and to the walls for spotlight porcelain sculptures. Subtle lighting is kept to a dignified minimum – what does shine is the menu which is elegantly bound with a tasselled page marker. Reading it will surely take your mind off the Chinese love ballads wafting through the air.
The salty egg yolk dishes set the benchmark. Sadly, they are rarely found on Adelaide menus so Shanghai House wins big, big brownie points for this. Jumbo prawns in the shell are fried golden in the sinfully rich mix of (usually duck) egg yolks. Your cholesterol level may raise, but your pleasure-metre will skyrocket. (Incidentally, a dessert of “special rocket” ice-cream intrigues.) Barramundi and live mud crab impress with sauces such as chilli bean rice wine. Fresh live lobster can be devoured raw if this floats your boat. Stewed pork belly is marinated in a special brown sauce and served simply with lettuce while Peking duck is presented with all of its pomp, pancakes and ceremony. Chefs Shen, Xu and Zhang may just lure you away from Chinatown for good.
Roz Taylor