PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAOyster lovers who dine here certainly do not mind the extra bivalve beauties added to their serve, and neither does the management, as it quickens supply turnover and promotes freshness and goodwill. Surprisingly though, oysters come only natural or Kilpatrick. Oh well. Chef Philimon is strictly old school, and at the glorious age of 75 has been cooking since the flagship “Paul’s Fish Cafe” threw open its nets in 1946. It thrived in the fish and chip shop mecca of Adelaide’s Gouger Street. Nick’s parents purchased it and established “Paul’s on Parade” in 1986. Many Adelaidians will, like myself, remember Paul’s Cafe for its retro dining room of laminated tables with paper napkin holders. Personally, I have a special fondness for those kitsch plastic sea creatures that used to be entangled in the fishing net decor of the cafe.
The modern day Paul’s in Norwood has contemporary sculptures that live on the walls. It’s funky metal artwork of all things fishy. A giant squid caught my eye; or rather, I could not help but catch his! Happily, the menu’s calamari is much tenderer than this steely specimen. It comes spiced with paprika or can be found fraternising with prawns, scallops and fish in the “Fruits of the Sea”. Finned friends are of the snapper, garfish and hake school with King George whiting topping the class. Baby barramundi and whole grilled flounder leap out of the specials, or hook some whitebait when available. Homemade Greek dips and salad pay homage to the restaurant’s heritage. The octopus is pickled; which brings us to the wine list – it lifts this fish and chipper to a very respectable level.
Roz Taylor